Secret ingredient noodle soup: pork bone broth with hand-pulled noodles and chili oil

Put the bones, short ribs and pig's tail in a tall narrow stock pot, cover with cold water and bring to a simmer to draw out blood and impurities.

Skim the gray scum, drain, and scrub the bones and meat clean.

Return to the cleaned pot with the licorice root, cassia bark, dried tangerine peel, dried longan, star anise, quartered onion, peeled ginger, carrots and dried scallops.

Cover with cold water, bring to a bare simmer and skim at the start of the boil.

Cook slow and low, barely bubbling so the broth stays clear, at least four hours and up to twelve.

Strain, cool in an ice bath and refrigerate overnight.

Mix the bread flour, water, salt and potassium carbonate in a stand mixer until just combined.

Knead by hand for 40 minutes to overdevelop the gluten until the dough resembles chewed gum.

Cover with plastic wrap and rest 15 to 20 minutes.

Tug-knead: gently stretch the dough long, fold it over itself and repeat, anywhere from 20 minutes to two hours, until it resembles chewed bubblegum.

Every four to six turns, pat the dough down and brush with water to keep it hydrated; pounding it on the table while stretching helps.

Peel and slice the daikon and simmer the slices in the reheating broth about 20 minutes until soft.

Halve the dough and halve again, keeping the rest covered; slap it on the table, stretch it long, roll it even and dust with flour.

Fold, stretch and repeat to form noodles, or stretch each noodle out one at a time.

Cook the noodles quickly and gently, no more than 90 seconds; meanwhile season the broth with plenty of salt.

Lift the noodles out with a sieve into a bowl, ladle the broth over and add daikon slices.

Garnish with Chinese chives or scallions and a dollop of chili oil.

For the chili oil, put Szechuan peppercorns, star anise, cassia bark, ginger and crushed garlic in a small saucepan and pour over the canola oil.

Swirl over medium heat until the oil reaches about 325F, then strain it over the Szechuan chili flakes in a heatproof bowl, mix, and cool about 30 minutes.

Variation: laminate the dough after its initial 45-minute knead, roll it out like pasta dough and pass it through a spaghetti cutter.

Variation: boil those noodles no more than 90 seconds until tender but chewy, drain into a warm bowl, ladle the hot broth over and garnish with Chinese chives and the chili oil.