Sen mee pad see ew (vegetarian, with thin rice vermicelli)

Soak the rice vermicelli in room temperature water 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the brand, until a lifted strand droops completely. Warm water halves the time; never hot water.

Slice the Chinese broccoli stems thinly on a bias; half chop the leaves.

Smash and chop the garlic.

Mix equal parts Thai soy sauce and Golden Mountain sauce for the sauce. Keep the black soy sauce separate.

For prik nam som, put chilies in a bowl and cover with vinegar; it is ready by the time the noodles are.

Drain the noodles and cut them to make tossing easier.

In a well-seasoned wok or a non-stick skillet, start the garlic in oil to infuse it. When the garlic just turns golden, not brown, add the eggs and scramble gently, pushing the garlic to the centre so it does not burn.

Cook the egg completely before adding the noodles, or the liquid egg clumps the thin noodles.

Add the noodles, toss to heat, then add the sauce and a little water; keep tossing until the liquid is absorbed.

Add the sugar. Toss gently and do not overstir, or the noodles break; taste and add a splash more water if needed.

Add a little black soy sauce for colour; do not try to mix the egg in fully.

Add the vegetables and white pepper; let the noodles toast. Cook the Chinese broccoli just until wilted, then turn off the heat.

Serve with prik nam som.