Sesame chutney noodles

Toast the sesame seeds to a little golden colour and set aside; wipe out the pan so nothing burns.

Saute chopped onions in a couple of tablespoons of neutral oil until glassy, six to eight minutes.

Add the garlic and a pinch of salt to sweat the onions; cook one to two minutes to take off the rawness.

Add the spices: chipotle or morita chili powder, 'all spice' (as transcribed), whole cumin and the Sichuan chili.

Cook the pasta in heavily salted water.

Put the onion mixture, the toasted sesame seeds, all the oil, agave syrup, apple cider vinegar and a cup and a half of water in a high-power blender and blend to the consistency of a loose peanut butter.

Taste and adjust with more salt, more chili and a little Kashmiri chili for heat.

Drain the pasta, reserving some pasta water.

Toss the pasta with the chutney, loosening with pasta water since it is too concentrated at full strength; add sesame oil and black sesame seeds.

Roughly chop mint and cilantro, toss most in and keep some for garnish. Serve hot or cold.