Seven-layer bars

Melt a stick of salted butter in the aluminum pan while the oven heats; add a pinch of salt if the butter is unsalted.

Mix in graham cracker crumbs by hand, starting with a cup, until it has a wet-sand texture that is just moldable. Too much butter makes the bars gooey, too little makes them brittle.

Level and press the base down firmly, or the bars will be brittle.

Scatter a layer of semi-sweet chocolate chips, getting them into the edges, then butterscotch chips, chopped pecans and sweetened desiccated coconut.

Pour sweetened condensed milk slowly over in a thin layer everywhere, stirring it first if cold; do not smooth it. Too much makes the bars gooey and too sweet.

Sprinkle a little more coconut on top. Bake about 20 minutes, until caramel-brown on top and the centre barely jiggles.

Cool a couple of hours before slicing, or they melt; they can be cut at the party and are better the next day.