Seville orange marmalade

Slice about three pounds of scrubbed oranges in half and juice them by hand into a bowl, reserving the pulp and skins and separating them with a spoon.

Strain the seeds out of the juice and add them to the orange flesh.

Slice the peels into small bite-sized pieces, as chunky or as fine as you like.

Deseed one lemon and cut it into small chunks.

Put the orange peels, orange juice and lemon chunks in a large stock pot with just enough water to cover, about six cups.

Tie the pulp and seeds in four layers of cheesecloth with butcher's twine and submerge the bag in the pot.

Bring to a rolling simmer for 30 minutes to a full hour, until the peels give no resistance to a spoon cutting them in half.

Take it off the heat, remove the bag and measure the marmalade; he had about seven cups.

Add three quarters of a cup of sugar for every cup of marmalade, which came to five and a quarter cups, and mix to dissolve.

Squeeze the bag hard to get out the residual juices and the thick creamy natural pectin, at least a tablespoon's worth, into the pot.

Bring to a constant simmer with an optional pinch of cinnamon and cook to 220F; it reaches 212F fast and stalls around 216F for about half an hour while water evaporates.

Drizzle a little onto a plate chilled in the freezer; if it wrinkles when pushed with a finger it is ready.

Optionally can it: into sanitized jars, lids tightened, in a steaming rack in simmering water for 10 minutes, then 24 hours at room temperature, checking the safety buttons have popped down.