Shallow-fried cannoli cookies

Pile the flour; add the sugar and salt. Cut in the cold butter with a knife until it essentially disappears into fine crumbs.

Make a well, add the egg yolk and just enough cold liquid, a little at a time, to bring it into a shaggy dough.

Rest the dough in the fridge at least 15 minutes to hydrate.

Stir powdered sugar and a splash of vanilla into the ricotta; make it a little too sweet.

Heat about a centimeter of oil in a shallow pan.

Roll the dough on a floured board, rolling a little and turning, as thin as reasonably possible without breaking.

Punch out rounds with a small juice glass, punch and twist.

Test the oil with a scrap; it should bubble aggressively.

Fry the rounds a minute or two, flipping with skewers, until dark golden and rigid; cool on a rack.

Pipe the filling from a Ziploc bag with the corner snipped onto the rounds just before eating.