Shrimp roll

Pour the weighed water into a deep stock pot, add the salt, sugar and the squeezed lemon halves, and bring to a simmer.

Kill the heat and add the shrimp. The water drops from a boil to poaching temperature, somewhere around 190 to 200F.

Cook three minutes, stirring once to distribute them evenly, then lift them out.

They are done when they have curled into a C and not an O, and are mostly opaque through with at most a little translucency in the centre. Larger sizes want another 30 to 45 seconds.

Cool the shrimp in the fridge about 20 minutes to stop the carryover cooking.

Chop the cold shrimp into pieces about half an inch across, the size of peanut M and Ms. Cut smaller and it eats like chicken salad.

Put the shrimp in a medium bowl and blot the surface moisture off with a paper towel, or the water goes into the dressing and the salad eats wet.

Add the mayonnaise, salt and chives.

Zest the lemon over the bowl with a microplane, stopping short of the bitter pith, then add the lemon juice.

Stir gently until evenly combined and taste for salt and lemon. Dress to order; salt and lemon will draw moisture out and make it weepy if it sits.

Oil the pan, put the split bun in cut side down, swirl it in the fat and toast gently about 90 seconds a side to an even golden brown.

Slather a little mayonnaise inside the toasted bun as glue, then stack in about three ounces of the shrimp salad.

Finish with a couple of cracks of pepper and a few more chives, then squeeze the bun closed.