Shunde shredded fish soup

Fry the fish fillets in a tablespoon of lard over a medium flame, about three and a half minutes a side, until a chopstick punches through easily. Remove to a plate.

Smush the fish between the fingers to roughly rice-grain size, picking out any stray bones. Keep the skin and bones.

In the unwashed pot over medium-high, add another touch of lard and fry the chopped bones and head with the optional ginger until browning, about three minutes.

Pour in 1.5 liters of hot water, add back the skin and bring to a boil. Boil rapidly, covered, on medium-high for 45 minutes until milky. Strain.

Soak the dried scallops in a cup of hot boiled water for an hour.

Soak the wood ear and tofu skin in cool water for an hour, then julienne each.

Slice and julienne the water chestnuts; julienne the luffa.

To about a liter of milky stock add half a liter of water and the scallops with their soaking liquid. Bring to a boil in a pot, add the wood ear and boil about three minutes.

Add the tofu skin, fish and luffa and boil another three minutes.

Season with the salt, sugar, white pepper, MSG and optional fish sauce.

Lower the flame and add the water chestnut starch slurry in a thin stream, stirring constantly to avoid glooping, until thickened to taste.

Add the water chestnuts (and cucumber if using in place of luffa) and serve from the pot or a bowl.