Sicilian brioche buns (brioche col tuppo)

Combine warm milk and warm water, 105 to 110F, in a mixing bowl; too hot kills the yeast.

Add honey and the yeast, stir with a whisk, and let sit about 20 minutes until foamy on top.

Add orange zest, vanilla extract, white sugar, beaten eggs, melted butter, salt, and finally the all-purpose flour.

Mix on low with the dough hook, scraping down the sides as needed; once incorporated, turn up one notch and knead 8 to 10 minutes until soft, smooth and very elastic. By hand takes about 15 minutes.

Check the dough stretches without tearing; form into a ball and place in a lightly buttered bowl, cover, and rise in a warm spot about two hours or until doubled (an hour and a half to three hours). A finger poke should slightly deflate and hold its marks.

Press out the air, roll into a cylinder, and cut into eight equal pieces, by eye or with a digital scale.

From each portion cut off about 15 to 20 percent of the dough for the tuppo; roll the larger piece into a smooth ball and place on a silpat-lined baking sheet in a 2-1-2-1-2 arrangement.

Roll each small piece into a smooth ball and shape one end into a point like a cone.

With lightly floured fingertips press a deep well in the middle of each bun; set the pointed end of the small ball into it and press around to attach, centred, with about half the tuppo above the surface.

Proof uncovered in a turned-off oven about an hour, until doubled.

Brush very gently with a milk-and-egg wash for a shinier finish.

Bake in the centre of a 350 degree oven 20 to 25 minutes until browned.

Cool on the pan 5 to 10 minutes, then move to a cooling rack to cool to room temperature. A silpat rather than parchment insulates so the bottoms do not brown as deeply.

Variation: split and stuff with ice cream, gelato or almond granita.