Skillet cheese souffle on a bed of cheesy cream

Season cold milk with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, stir and set aside.

Melt butter over very low heat, add the flour all at once and cook the roux 2 minutes; turn the heat off.

Off the heat, add a little cold milk to the hot roux and work to a lump-free paste, then add the rest in two or three goes.

Return to medium heat and whisk until very thick, thicker than a standard bechamel.

Melt in about 20 g cheese; off the heat beat in one egg yolk (two if wanted) to make a very thick Mornay. Scrape into a container and cool.

Warm the cream in a cast-iron skillet over medium-low heat with a little salt and pepper; melt in cheese to taste and turn off once it thickens.

Beat room-temperature egg whites with a pinch of salt and a drop of lemon juice at medium speed to a firm meringue.

Loosen the Mornay by beating in some of the whites, then fold in the rest gently until no white streaks remain.

Rewarm the cream to a simmer if it cooled, drop the souffle mixture over it in one go, and bake 12 to 14 minutes in a preheated oven.

Serve at once in the skillet with spoons for sharing.