Slow-simmered mashed potatoes passed through a sieve

Leave the potatoes unpeeled and cut them into small pieces so they cook evenly.

Put them in a pot with just enough water to submerge them.

Bring to a bare simmer and hold it there for at least 20 minutes so the cells separate rather than burst.

Meanwhile peel and roughly chop a lot of garlic, smashing it to release the skins.

Test the potatoes with a fork; if not soft enough, raise the heat and boil a little longer.

Kill the heat and drain, catching the cooking water to reuse.

Melt a little butter in the pot and cook the garlic briefly to take the edge off; kill the heat.

Return the potatoes, add the rest of the butter and an equal amount of creme fraiche, and a big pinch of salt.

Give it a preliminary mash and loosen with a little of the potato water.

Pass the mash through a metal sieve with a wooden spoon in a circular grinding motion, scraping it off the bottom; discard the skins and garlic left behind.

Taste, adjust salt, and loosen with more potato water.