Smacked cucumber salad

Smack the cucumbers with the wide blade of a cleaver until they split along their length, creating bruises that help them absorb flavour.

Cut the cucumbers diagonally into bite-sized pieces.

Season with three quarter teaspoons of salt, toss thoroughly and set aside 15 minutes; longer makes them saltier.

Grate three cloves of garlic finely.

Add the diced cilantro, Thai bird eye chilies, sugar, soy sauce and vinegar to the garlic to make the dressing.

Pour off and discard the liquid the salt has drawn out of the cucumber, or it will dilute the seasonings.

Toss the cucumber with the dressing thoroughly, then top with one to two tablespoons of Lao Gan Ma chili crisp rather than mixing it in.