Smash burgers

Divide 80-20 ground beef into equal portions and roll into balls with clean hands; place on a plate or small baking sheet.

Cover and chill 20 minutes, or up to six hours, so the patties hold together when cooked.

Prep toppings: very thinly sliced red onion, fresh tomato, thinly sliced cheddar, iceberg lettuce.

For the sauce, mix a quarter cup of mayo, about a tablespoon of ketchup, a teaspoon of mustard and a teaspoon to a tablespoon of relish; enough for about four burgers, double it for eight.

Toward the end of the chill, heat a big cast iron skillet or griddle over medium-high heat.

Cut the buns, brush the cut sides with melted butter and toast face down about a minute; set aside on a baking sheet.

Cook two to four patties at a time, in even numbers for double patties; set each on the hot pan and smash it flat with a spatula, using a can to press if needed.

Season the tops with salt and pepper and cook one to two minutes without overcrowding, which would steam them instead of crisping the edges.

Flip, season again with salt and pepper and cook another one to two minutes until cooked through; add a slice of cheese.

Spread about a tablespoon of sauce on each toasted bun; loosen sticking patties at the edges before lifting with the spatula.

Stack the patties and pile on sliced onion, tomato with a little salt and pepper, and lettuce; give one last press.