Smoked glazed chicken thighs

Take the thighs out of the package without trimming and season with a 50-50 mix by volume of salt and pepper, making sure to season the skin side so it dries and crisps; avoid fine-grained rubs, which seem to dull the smoke.

Smoke at 225 degrees (it may drop to 200) to build smoke flavour early, for about an hour, until the internal temperature is in the 150s.

Add logs and raise the smoker to 300 degrees to render the fat under the skin and crisp it; cook to an internal 185.

Mix barbecue sauce in a tray with apple cider vinegar until runny enough to coat evenly but not watery.

Dunk the finished thighs in the cold glaze and return them to the smoker, without raising the temperature, only until the glaze thickens, turns sticky and shiny.