Smooth base hummus

Cover the dried chickpeas generously with water in a large bowl and soak overnight.

Drain and rinse, put in a pot with the baking soda and water to cover by about 2 inches; bring up on high.

When the chickpeas foam, stir the foam back in and turn to medium; cook half an hour until soft and creamy inside.

Set aside a big scoop of chickpeas for garnish. Cover and cook another 30 to 60 minutes until broken and goopy; canned chickpeas join at this stage with the baking soda.

Let any excess water evaporate, spread the chickpeas on a plate and cool completely.

Process the chickpeas 3 to 4 minutes, scraping down halfway, to a fine floury paste with no chunks.

Process in the ice until the paste goes from tan to light beige.

Add the tahini, then the lemon juice and salt, and blend to a thick hummus; adjust acid with citric acid rather than more lemon, and thin with another 30 g ice if needed.

To serve, pile hummus on a plate, build it up with the inside of a spoon while rotating, press the back of the spoon into the centre and push outward; add the reserved chickpeas and pour olive oil in the middle.

Variation: dip a wet fork in paprika and press stripes into the hummus.

Variation: hummus be shawarma, with a small serving of chicken shawarma in the centre.

Variation: beiruti hummus, a cup of hummus mixed with chopped parsley, mint, minced garlic, lemon juice and chilli flakes.