Soft and crispy focaccia with garlic and rosemary

Whisk the active dry yeast into half a cup of warm water, about 100F and not hot, to dissolve.

Let sit about five minutes; slight swelling shows the yeast is alive.

Add two and a half more cups of room temperature water, six cups of bread flour and the kosher salt; mix on low until the flour is hydrated, then increase the speed.

Mix about five minutes until smooth and starting to wrap around the hook.

Cover the bowl with a dampened towel and rest about 10 minutes.

Mix again on medium-high until the dough pulls away from the sides and is extremely smooth and elastic, 10 to 15 minutes; underworking is the greater risk.

Add a quarter cup of olive oil and swirl to coat the sides; loosen the dough from the bowl with a scraper, spatula or hands and dab oil over the surface.

Cover with the towel and let rise until doubled and bubbly, one to one and a half hours, up to two on a cold day.

Poke test: the dough springs back but leaves a very slight indentation.

Generously oil the half sheet tray with the remaining quarter cup of olive oil.

Fold: reach down around the sides, lift the dough, turn the bowl 90 degrees, and repeat four times around the bowl.

Transfer and stretch the dough to fill the tray as far as it goes; when it springs back, stop. Pop any very big bubbles.

Cover with oiled plastic and rest about 10 minutes for the gluten to relax.

Combine garlic and rosemary with a quarter cup of olive oil and let it sit to infuse; add red pepper flakes.

Peel back the plastic and finish stretching the dough into the corners.

Cover and let rise until the dough is flush with the top of the pan; it can be chilled overnight for better flavour and structure, then brought out to finish rising.

With oiled fingertips, push all the way to the bottom of the pan to make big dimples, deflating some air so the focaccia stays flat.

Drizzle the topping over with a spoon; preheat the oven to 450 with racks on the very bottom and very top.

Sprinkle a little flaky salt on top.

Bake on the bottom rack until the bread pulls from the corners and the bottom is nicely brown.

Move to the upper rack to brown and crisp the top, maybe another five to ten minutes.

Loosen the focaccia with a fish spatula or any flexible spatula and unmold.

Cut with scissors into pieces.