Sopa seca de fideos with oyster mushrooms, fire-roasted tomato, pasilla and chipotle

Spread the fideos on a baking sheet and spray liberally with olive oil so they brown evenly.

Toast in a 375 oven about 8 minutes, then a couple of minutes more, until browned all the way through.

Trim the base off the oyster mushrooms and cut crosswise into quarter-inch pieces; slice the onion crosswise about a quarter inch.

Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, add about 3 tablespoons olive oil and saute the mushrooms and onion, stirring, until the onions brown.

Cut the pasilla chilies into thin strips and toss to shake out most of the seeds.

Puree one can of fire-roasted tomatoes with canned chipotles and a spoonful of their juice.

Add the pasilla strips to the browning onions and toast a couple of minutes until aromatic.

Add the tomato puree and the second can of tomatoes, undrained; stir as it heats, then add chicken broth for a juicy mixture and bring to a simmer.

Chop about half a cup of cilantro, stems and all, and add it (epazote leaves, whole, if available).

Season with about a teaspoon of salt, taste, and add a little more.

Nestle the toasted fideos in, fully covered by the sauce; after 3 to 4 minutes break the coils apart, then cook about 4 minutes more, testing.

Stir in half of the cream; turn off the heat.

Serve, drizzled with the remaining crema thinned with a little water, sprinkled with goat cheese crumbles and scattered with cilantro leaves.

Variation: Top with chorizo, avocado, or grated cotija, or serve with grilled fish.