Sourdough boule

Twelve hours before mixing, combine the 90F water with the ripe starter, top with the bread flour and mix until there are no lumps.

Cover and ferment the leaven at room temperature 12 to 24 hours, until it has tripled or quadrupled and a little of it floats in water.

Stir all the ripe leaven into the 92F water until dissolved, then add the bread flour, whole wheat flour and salt.

Stir with a spoon for about two minutes until it forms a dry clump, then finish by squeezing and folding with a wet hand until homogeneous.

Cover and rest 30 minutes.

Pull and fold the dough over itself five to six times until it will not stretch further, then flip it and round it from 10 o'clock to 3 o'clock to build tension. Cover and rest 30 minutes.

Repeat the folding and rounding, then move to a warm place -- an oven turned on five minutes and off, about 95F -- to finish bulk fermentation for two more hours, three hours in total.

Turn the doubled dough onto a lightly floured board, fold opposite sides over each other twice, flip onto the folds and round it into a boule.

Drop the boule seam side up into the floured proofing basket and give the back a few crisscross folds for more tension.

Cover and proof in a warm place 60 to 90 minutes, until 60 to 70 percent larger and the loaf springs back slowly when poked.

Sheet tray method: flip the loaf onto a parchmented sheet tray, score the top with five to six overlapping snips of scissors, spritz about 10 times with water, cover with a turkey foil pan lid and bake at 450F for 15 minutes.

Remove the lid and bake 20 more minutes, moving the loaf onto a wire rack so the bottom does not burn.

Dutch oven method: preheat a Dutch oven at 475F for 30 minutes, flip the loaf onto a nine-inch parchment round dusted with semolina, snip five to six times on an angle, lower it in on the parchment, cover and bake 15 minutes.

Remove the lid to release the steam and bake 25 minutes more at 475F, about 35 minutes total, until deeply golden brown.