Southern Thai coconut milk barbecue chicken (gai golae)

Cut the mild guajillos and spicier dried chilies into small pieces and grind them in a coffee grinder; let the powder settle before opening.

Grind the toasted coriander and cumin seeds.

Pound lots of garlic and shallots to a paste (a blender also works). Once the juices come out, add the ground spices, the cinnamon and the ground chilies, half at a time.

Saute the paste in a little oil until sizzling; if it sticks, deglaze with a little coconut milk and keep sauteing until fragrant.

Add the rest of the coconut milk, some water, salt, quite a bit of palm sugar, tamarind for a touch of acidity, and the fermented shrimp paste (or fish sauce in place of the salt).

Simmer and reduce for about 15 to 20 minutes, until thick but still pouring freely.

Take out the portion for the marinade and add a little more salt to it; keep the rest as the glaze and chill it.

Cut chicken breast and thigh into chunks of at least an inch to an inch and a half, so the triple grilling does not dry them out.

Add the cooled marinade to the chicken and marinate at least half an hour, overnight even better.

Thread on skewers; soak the skewers in water or wrap the exposed ends in foil so they do not burn.

Set on a rack over a foil-lined tray with some water poured underneath, so the drips do not burn.

First grilling: under the broiler, four to five inches away, about four minutes per side, until cooked through.

Let cool, ideally to room temperature (a fan helps), so the chicken does not overcook.

Coat the chicken all over with the glaze, shaking off the excess.

Second grilling: under the broiler with the oven door open, about three minutes per side, until the glaze is dry, bubbly and sticky with a few charred bits.

Let cool, glaze again (thin the glaze with a little water if it runs short) and grill a third time.

Let cool a little before eating; no dipping sauce needed.