Spaghetti al pomodoro

Bring an inch of water to a boil, add the tomatoes and cover to steam for a minute (or submerge to boil).

Shock with cold water to stop the cooking; when cool enough to touch, slide off the skins.

Cut around the stem with a paring knife into the woody core and remove it.

Refill the pot with water for the pasta, add a couple of big pinches of salt and bring to a boil.

Crush the tomatoes thoroughly rather than dicing, so they need less cooking.

Peel and thoroughly chop a clove of garlic, grinding it down with salt if wanted.

In a wide pan, heat olive oil, cook the garlic for just a few seconds, then add the tomatoes; salt lightly if at all.

Bring the sauce to a spirited simmer; give it at most a five-minute head start before the pasta.

Cook a quarter package of spaghetti per person; meanwhile cook the sauce down, stirring frequently so it does not stick and burn.

Kill the heat when the sauce is done; take the spaghetti out when not quite done and finish it in the sauce with a splash of pasta water.

Finish with raw extra virgin olive oil, tear in a few basil leaves and toss to coat.

Plate with tongs and top with a few more fresh basil leaves. The sauce cooks in 20 minutes at most.