Spaghetti alla carbonara

Remove and discard the skin from the guanciale.

Cut the guanciale into strips with fat on both outer edges and meat in the middle, so it comes out crispy and tender at once.

Boil the spaghetti in a large pot of unsalted water for 13 minutes, pushing the strands down so they cook evenly.

Cook the guanciale gently over medium-low heat with nothing added, until the fat has run out as oil and the meat is crispy.

Separate three eggs and keep the yolks, then add one whole egg.

Mix the eggs, add half the pecorino and a splash of pasta water and mix, then add the rest of the pecorino and mix to a thick cream.

Take half the crisp guanciale out of the pan and reserve it, leaving the rest in.

Lift the pasta straight out of the pot into the pan with tongs, carrying some water with it, and stir it through the guanciale with a little more pasta water.

Switch the heat off, pour the egg and cheese cream over the pasta with a touch of pasta water, and stir until it is creamy; the pasta water keeps the egg from scrambling.

Turn the carbonara into a bowl and stir in a mountain of black pepper.

Toss it in a salad bowl, which makes it creamier still.

Top with the reserved guanciale, the last of the cream and more black pepper.