Spaghetti alla Nerano

Slice the zucchini all exactly the same thickness, about an eighth of an inch, by knife or on a mandoline using the guard or a protective glove.

Deep-fry the zucchini in sunflower oil heated to 350, in small batches, about four to five minutes until lightly browned.

Shake off the excess oil and drain on paper towels, spread out; let cool to room temperature.

Transfer to a bowl, wrap, and refrigerate overnight.

Heat a couple tablespoons of olive oil in a pan over medium heat; add the cold zucchini and a big pinch of salt.

Cook on medium, stirring occasionally, until it releases its juices and softens; add a couple splashes of the spaghetti's boiling salted water if dry, minding the water that comes with the pasta.

Break the zucchini up with the edge of a spoon or spatula, from chunky to nearly a puree.

When the spaghetti is about two minutes from al dente, lower the heat; add a little torn basil and a couple tablespoons of butter, stirring until the butter emulsifies into the sauce.

Transfer the spaghetti into the sauce with tongs, letting some water come along, and toss to coat.

Mix in the grated cheese, half Parmesan and half Toma; adjust with a splash of pasta water and taste for salt.

Plate by twirling in a ladle with a meat fork; finish with more grated cheese and a small sprig of basil.