Spaghetti and meatballs with fresh extruded pasta

In a stand mixer bowl measure four large eggs, 250 g all-purpose flour, 210 g semolina flour and 5 g salt, and mix on low with the paddle about 60 seconds until it starts to hydrate and come together.

Add another 20 g water -- use judgement, the dough needs slightly different amounts depending on the flour and the season.

Switch to the dough hook and mix two more minutes on low. The final dough is not smooth or strong, and is very dry compared to a hand-rolled pasta dough, because it is going to be extruded.

Turn out onto the cutting board and knead 60 more seconds, adding a little water if it is pebbly.

Rest the dough in a medium bowl in the fridge 30 minutes to hydrate.

For the panade, mush 250 g buttermilk, one large egg and 150 g cubed white bread into a starchy sludge, which coats the proteins in the meat and stops them drying out.

Add 125 g grated parmesan, then 15 g chopped parsley, 15 g minced garlic, 18 g salt, 3 g black pepper, 15 g lemon juice, a strong pinch of chili flake, 450 g 80-20 ground beef and 450 g 80-20 ground pork.

Mix until just combined and able to hold together, without overmixing, which would link the proteins and make it chewy instead of tender.

Weigh out exactly 15 balls of about 100 to 105 g, rolling each in the palms until slightly tacky, and lay them three by five on a parchment-lined sheet tray.

Sear the meatballs in a 475F oven for about 20 minutes, until cooked through and nicely browned.

For the sauce, warm a high-sided pot over medium heat, add about half a cup of olive oil, 150 g small diced yellow onion, 15 g minced garlic and a strong pinch of salt.

Sweat over medium heat about 10 minutes until the onions are soft, translucent and have lost most of their moisture.

Add a strong pinch of chili flakes and fry a minute.

Puree the can of whole peeled tomatoes with an immersion blender and add it with the can of crushed tomatoes, which gives smoothness in the background and chunkiness in the front.

Turn to medium low, put the lid on and cook 15 minutes.

Rest the meatballs 10 minutes and turn the oven down to 325F.

Taste the sauce and add a strong pinch of salt and about 5 g of sugar to temper the acidity.

Load the meatballs into the thick sauce and stir gently to combine.

Put the pot in the low oven 20 to 30 minutes to slowly reduce and caramelize the sauce, which comes out jammy and roasty at the edges.

Attach the pasta extruder to the stand mixer, pull off a few ounces of dough at a time and roll each into a taut ball about the size of a walnut.

With the mixer on its highest speed drop the balls into the extruder; the cold dough takes four to five minutes to warm up before it extrudes easily.

At a 12 to 15 inch length, zip the pasta off with the cutter tool and move it to a well-floured sheet tray, dusting it heavily so it does not stick.

Cook the spaghetti in a large pot of heavily salted boiling water three to four minutes, to just past al dente.

Move the noodles to a non-stick pan with a few small pads of butter and a few drips of pasta water and swirl over low heat to emulsify, so they do not water down the sauce.

Twirl the pasta into a nest with tongs, plate it, top with two meatballs and spoon the sauce over the balls rather than tossing the pasta in it.

Garnish with a liberal amount of grated parmesan, fresh parsley and a long drizzle of olive oil.