Spaghetti carbonara for 10 people

Remove the skin from the guanciale without taking meat or fat; scrape off most of the pepper coating, which would otherwise blacken the pan.

Cut the guanciale into strips so each has fat, meat and fat; cubes also work.

Spread the guanciale in a large cold saucepan with no oil. Cook on medium-low about 10 minutes, stirring every three to four minutes, until the fat has melted into oil and the meat and fat are crispy.

Separate 10 eggs, yolks into the largest bowl (one that sits on the pasta pot); keep the whites for another use. Add 1 whole egg.

Beat the eggs by hand (or an electric mixer) for a long time, until runny but creamy.

Mix in half the pecorino, then add more until the cream thickens.

Quickly stir half of the hot guanciale oil into the eggs; the oil starts to cook them and adds flavour.

Add a little more pecorino, keeping some back, and a lot of black pepper; mix to the final consistency.

Boil the spaghetti in unsalted water (the pecorino is salty) about 13 minutes until al dente, stirring every three or four minutes so it does not stick.

Transfer about a third of the egg sauce into a second bowl.

Bring a small pot of water to boiling hot, then switch it off.

Reserve a mug of pasta water. Put about two-thirds of the spaghetti (about 700 g) into the big bowl and the rest into the small bowl, letting some pasta water go in.

Set each bowl over a pot of hot water, big on big and small on small, and mix fast, adding pasta water so the egg does not cook, until creamy.

Add the guanciale and all its oil to both bowls and mix.

If the carbonara starts to dry up, add more pasta water; the more it is mixed the creamier it gets.

Serve in nests topped with guanciale; add more pecorino for a saltier finish.