Spaghetti carbonara with fresh spaghetti

Mound the flour on a clean surface and make a well; crack the eggs into it.

Draw flour from the wall into the eggs with a fork, beating and pulling the mound in as it thickens.

Work the rest in with fingers and palms until a clean thumb pressed into the dough comes away clean.

Knead on a floured surface, pressing with the heel of the palm, folding in half and turning a half turn, about eight minutes, until smooth as a baby's skin.

Bag the dough and rest it in the fridge until firmer.

Split the dough into ninths, one for each of three eggs times three; keep the pieces covered so they do not dry.

Flour the pasta machine and feed each piece through the widest notch, folding three ways, then step down through the notches to five.

Hang the sheets to dry 10 to 20 minutes.

Feed the sheets through the spaghetti attachment, sieve a little flour over the strands and shake it off so they do not stick, and hang them to dry.

Slice the skin off the pancetta and cut it into quarter inch wide, half inch thick pieces.

Mash the garlic cloves with a knife handle just enough to split them and loosen the skin; discard the skin.

Set a pan over medium high heat with the olive oil, add the split garlic and saute until deep dark gold, then remove and discard it.

Add the pancetta and cook until it just begins to crisp at the edges.

Add the white wine and let it bubble away a few minutes, then take the pan off the heat.

Beat the eggs lightly with a fork in a bowl, add the grated Pecorino and Parmesan, the parsley and a liberal grinding of black pepper.

Bring about five quarts of water to a boil and salt it.

Cook the fresh spaghetti about two minutes.

Drain into a colander and tip the pasta into the bowl with the egg and cheese; toss rapidly. Add a couple of tablespoons of pasta water.

Briefly reheat the pancetta with all its fat and oil and add the lot to the bowl; toss again.

Plate, twirling the pasta with a carving knife and a ladle; top with a few more pieces of pancetta and grate Parmesan over.