Spaghetti squash carbonara

Trim the ends of a large spaghetti squash and cut it across into three sections, starting the cut with no pressure until the blade is through the skin and keeping the other hand clear.

Scrape out the seeds with a spoon and set the sections on a parchment-lined sheet pan.

Coat with olive oil and sprinkle generously with salt.

Roast at 400F until tender enough to pull into strands, 45 minutes to an hour and a half depending on size.

Cut the pancetta into quarter-inch strips, then across every quarter inch, removing any wax paper; dice about half a pound.

Cook the pancetta in a skillet with a drizzle of olive oil over medium-high, stirring occasionally, until browned; once sizzling, lower to medium or medium-low. Turn off the heat.

When the squash is done (about an hour and 15 minutes here), pull it into strands with two forks; slightly undercooked is better than mushy. Scoop it out and set aside.

Whisk the egg yolks with a big spoon of black pepper and a splash of water.

Add the hot squash, chunks of butter and the pancetta with its rendered fat, reserving a couple of tablespoons of pancetta; mix thoroughly with forks until the butter melts. If the squash was roasted ahead, melt the butter in the pancetta pan first.

Toss in grated Pecorino and Parmigiano Reggiano; taste and add a pinch more salt if needed.

Transfer with tongs to a baking dish, fluff with forks and dust the top with more cheese.

Bake at 400F about 15 minutes until heated through.

Top with the reserved pancetta, a last grating of cheese and chopped Italian parsley.