Spanakopita with tipsy phyllo

Stir together bread flour, apple vinegar, salt, a pinch of sugar and the ouzo.

Work the dough in the machine, adding the seltzer at the side by judgement, about a cup and a half, to an elastic dough.

Rest the dough at least half an hour, preferably two or three hours.

Roll the dough in cornstarch, which is not absorbed and lets it be rolled very thin and elastic.

Line the pan with parchment paper on both sides.

Roll each phyllo out large with the thick-centred pin, stretching it with the fingers over the stick rather than pressing. Tears do not matter.

Lay the first phyllo, wrinkling it to build a layer, and oil it by hand rather than with a brush. Three sheets on the bottom, thicker than baklava phyllo.

Bake slowly for at least one hour. Best eaten the second day, cold or at room temperature.

Toss the chopped greens, herbs, feta, eggs, hot pepper and raisins with two teaspoons of salt, kneading it like bread to wilt the greens.

Spread a handful of bulgur wheat over the bottom layers to absorb liquid from the raw greens and keep the base crunchy.

Spread the stuffing, keeping it low: the ratio of stuffing to phyllo is the point. Oil the top.

Cover with two more phyllo sheets, oiling between; fold the bottom layers up and over to enclose the filling, and crimp all round at an even height so it does not burn.

Score the top layers all the way across so the steam from the raw greens can escape.