Spatchcocked, compound-butter, dry-brined roast turkey

Thaw the turkey in the fridge, 24 hours for every six to eight pounds, so it is fully defrosted the day before.

Brine: a wet brine is a 5% salt solution the whole turkey is dunked in; the dry brine used here gives crispier skin and more turkey-flavored meat.

Spatchcock the turkey and push compound butter under the skin.

Dry brine: salt the outside to the level wanted in the finished bird, pressing it on, and salt the underside generously; do not rinse.

Refrigerate uncovered at least overnight, ideally 24 hours (four hours is better than nothing), so the skin dries and goes dull and tight.

Set the bird on a bed of mirepoix in the pan so it steams from below and the drippings do not burn; rub with a little oil; keep the extremities over the pan.

Roast, thighs toward the back of the oven so they get more heat faster.

Rest at least 20 minutes so the contracted muscle fibers relax and hold their juices.

Carve: bisect the bird, cut between breast and thigh-drum, cut around the joint and under the breast to remove it and slice it; separate drum and thigh through the joint; shred the dark meat.