Spicy cured egg yolks

Mix 454 g coarse kosher salt, 100 g sugar and 5 g Calabrian chili powder in a bowl.

Spread half the salt mixture in a baking dish or container and press a dimple for each yolk with an egg.

Separate the yolks from the whites and set each yolk in a dimple; sprinkle the rest of the mixture over until completely covered.

Cover with plastic wrap or a lid and refrigerate 4 to 6 days (5 here), noting the start day.

Dig out the yolks onto a tray and brush off the excess salt; they should be firm but slightly gummy.

Rinse each yolk lightly under the tap until smooth and translucent, then dry completely with a paper towel.

Dry in the oven at its lowest setting, 180F, with space between the yolks: an initial 40 minutes plus another 10 here, until opaque, firm like cheese and dry outside.

Cool 20 to 30 minutes before grating.

Variation: instead of the oven, wrap in cheesecloth and dry in the fridge for at least 7 days.

Grate over food like Parmesan: over reheated mac and cheese, over avocado toast with black sesame seeds, or stirred into a pasta sauce and shaved over the top.