Spicy garlic potato noodles

Combine the potato starch with a little salt and barely half a teaspoon of vegetable oil.

Add boiling water a splash at a time, stirring between additions, until the dough is a little too wet.

Turn out onto a counter dusted with starch, sprinkle more on top, and knead in more starch until smooth, elastic and rollable; work quickly while the dough is warm, as dough kneaded too long cooled and broke apart when rolled.

Dust with more starch and roll out to about an eighth of an inch thick; the noodles swell in water and in the sauce.

Cut into quarter-inch noodles with a pizza cutter (halve the sheet first for shorter noodles) and separate them so they do not reattach.

Boil half a batch at a time for about a minute, until they float.

Transfer to a bowl of cold water to stop the cooking; repeat with the second half.

Mix the sauce: oyster sauce, soy sauce, rice vinegar, a couple squirts of ketchup, sesame oil, a little sugar and a few squirts of hot sauce.

Sizzle the minced garlic in vegetable oil over medium-high heat about 15 seconds, add red chili flakes and sliced green onions and stir-fry a few seconds.

Before the garlic colors, add the noodles straight from the water; the water stops the garlic from burning.

Add the sauce and stir with a spatula; when it simmers and the noodles are heated through, turn off the heat and stir in chopped cilantro.

Bowl up and garnish with more cilantro and a couple shakes of chili flakes.