Stovetop mac and cheese

Method one: combine one and a half cups of whole milk and one cup of water in a medium saucepan.

Cook the pasta directly in the milk and water, to about a minute shy of done, so the liquid absorbs and takes up the pasta's starch.

Kill the heat, then stir in the shredded cheddar until just distributed; cover and rest five minutes.

Note: this version sets into a brick as it cools to room temperature; the starch alone is not enough to stabilise the sauce.

Variation, America's Test Kitchen method: same milk and water, bring to a boil, cook the pasta until almost done, reduce the heat, then add the Dijon, cayenne and the grated American cheese.

Variation: mix over very low heat, season with salt and pepper, and once the American has melted add the extra sharp cheddar.

Variation: kill the heat, mix until dispersed, cover and rest five minutes so the cheddar melts gently without breaking.

Variation: top with panko breadcrumbs toasted in butter.

Variation, Kenji method: cover six ounces of pasta with just enough cold water to submerge, bring to a boil and simmer until most of the water is absorbed and the pasta is fully cooked.

Variation: pour six ounces of evaporated milk over the top and bring to a bare bubble.

Variation: add six ounces of shredded cheese and cook over low to no heat until completely melted and thickened; optionally add Dijon and cayenne.