Street corn salad

Grill the shucked corn until charred on all sides but not burnt; too much cooking without husks dries it out.

Chop a whole bunch of chives; scallions also work.

Variation: soak the corn in its husk before grilling to keep it moist, then husk it at the last minute and grill briefly for grill marks.

Aim for some charred areas for flavour and some blonde areas for moisture.

Cut the kernels off the cobs into a bowl.

Add the chopped chives and plenty of chopped cilantro to the corn.

Season with plenty of lime and salt, a drizzle of olive oil and about two tablespoons of mayo at most, so it stays a salad rather than a dip; stir well and add freshly grated black pepper.

At the table, sprinkle cotija on top rather than stirring it in, so it keeps its sharpness, and add a few dashes of hot sauce or a little paprika.

Variation: add grilled poblano, grilled zucchini or cucumber.