Stuffed crust pizza

Make the dough by the well method, kneading in a little extra flour until just a little sticky; a drier dough is stronger and less likely to tear and leak.

Divide into three rather than four, since each pizza needs extra dough to wrap the cheese. Rise in an unoiled bowl, as oil on the dough makes the seal harder.

Cut the string cheese in half and chill. Cut the topping cheese into pellets and chill.

For the sauce, mix crushed tomatoes with olive oil, dried herbs and a pinch of sugar.

Cold-rise the dough two days in the fridge, or two hours on the counter.

Roll the cold dough out on an unfloured counter so it sticks and does not snap back, pushing down hard from the middle then out, until evenly round and a little wider than the 14-inch screen.

Peel it off the counter onto the screen, centered. Roll the overhanging skirt thin against the counter, grafting on extra dough where it is short.

Lay the string cheese end to end around the edge, wet the dough with water, then fold and crimp all the way round, leaving plenty of excess folded onto the interior so the ring does not leak.

Melt butter in a pan with herbs, spices and enough salt to make it sandy; brush over the top and sides of the crust, then press hard to seal the cheese ring.

Spread the sauce, sprinkle canned Parmesan and add the chilled cheese pellets in big chunks to slow the melting.

Bake with the oven on full blast on a baking steel preheated for an hour, switching to the broiler halfway; no bake time stated.