Sundubu jjigae with pork jowl, kimchi and daikon

Remove the heads and dark guts from the dried anchovies.

Put the anchovies and kombu in a pot with a few cups of water, bring to a simmer and let it simmer while preparing the rest.

Chop the kimchi into bite-sized pieces, keeping the juice.

Cut the pork jowl into big chunks and put it in the stone pot with a dab of sesame oil; heat over medium-high, then a touch lower, until the fat renders and the pork browns a little.

Mince the garlic. Slice the white and pale scallion parts for cooking; slice the greens and keep them in a bowl of water for garnish.

Mix gochugaru, sugar, sesame oil and a splash of soy sauce into a paste.

Quarter the daikon and cut it into chunky pieces.

Add the garlic and scallion whites to the pork and cook until aromatic, about 30 seconds.

Add the spice paste and bloom it in the pork fat without letting the chili burn.

Deglaze with kimchi juice; add a splash of soju and of fish sauce.

Add the kimchi and radish and stir.

Strain in about a cup of the anchovy broth; keep it stew-like rather than soupy.

Taste and season with salt and MSG; adjust heat with more chili paste.

Simmer about 10 minutes until the radish and kimchi soften, adding a splash more stock if it reduces too much.

Slice the soft tofu tubes in half and let the tofu fall into the pot; break gently with a spoon into big chunks.

Bring back to a simmer just to heat the tofu through without stirring much; taste again, since the tofu releases water.

Break a raw egg into the centre, top with the scallion greens, and serve bubbling on a trivet with rice.