Swedish-style meatballs with mushroom gravy

Sprinkle about a quarter ounce of gelatin over a quarter cup of milk and let it hydrate.

Season a pound of pork and beef with a big pinch of salt, white pepper, red pepper flakes and freshly grated nutmeg.

Add an egg, about a teaspoon of soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, the bloomed milk and gelatin, the breadcrumbs, three cloves of garlic and thyme leaves; mix well.

Heat about a quarter inch of oil in a cast-iron pan; fry the meatballs without moving them until the bottom is browned, then brown the other sides, reducing the heat so they do not over-brown; they finish in the sauce.

Microwave a little of the mix in a bowl 10 to 15 seconds until cooked through and taste for salt.

With damp hands, form medium-sized balls onto a plate.

Trim and slice the cremini mushrooms an eighth to a quarter inch thick; cook in about a tablespoon of oil with some butter until their liquid steams off and they brown again.

Mince the onion and garlic; season the mushrooms with white pepper and salt; add a couple tablespoons of butter, then the onion and garlic and whole thyme sprigs, and sweat without much color.

Add a couple tablespoons of flour and cook into a roux.

Add about a cup of chicken stock a quarter cup at a time, incorporating each before the next and scraping up the bottom.

Add about a cup of milk more quickly, bring to a simmer, and add a little more nutmeg.

Add the meatballs and reduce until lightly thickened, or as thick as wanted; finish with a little lemon juice and a touch of soy sauce.

Serve with spaghetti; traditionally with cucumber salad, potatoes and lingonberry jam.