Sweet potato and bacon sheet-pan pizza

Prick the sweet potatoes all over with the tip of a knife to vent moisture.

Roast in a 400 degree oven about an hour, until very soft, juices bead from the holes and a knife slides in with no effort.

Cool until handleable, cut open and scoop out the flesh, about 2 to 2.5 cups.

Season with kosher salt, black pepper and a few shakes of cayenne; add a generous amount of olive oil, minced rosemary, the zest and then the juice of one lemon.

Mash until relatively smooth; stir in a very generous amount of grated Parmesan; taste and set aside.

Put the bacon pieces in a dry, cold pan over medium-high heat, separating them as it heats; cook until foamy, the fat mostly rendered and the bacon crisp. Drain on paper towels.

Dough: sprinkle a teaspoon of active dry yeast over warm water and let sit about 10 minutes.

Add the flour and salt and mix with a wooden spoon about two minutes (no-knead).

Leave covered overnight in a cool spot; in the morning, with wet hands, give it a couple of turns and folds to knock out the air, cover and refrigerate until needed.

Spread two or three tablespoons of olive oil over a sheet pan; with oily hands, transfer the dough and push it out toward the corners, resting it about five minutes whenever it springs back, once or several times.

Dollop the sweet potato spread on and spread a thin, even layer, pressing the dough back into the corners with a spoon; keep any extra.

Top with six ounces of cubed mozzarella, the bacon, a couple ounces of fontina, seeded jalapeno rings and a dusting of Parmesan.

Bake in the center or lower center of a 450 degree oven 30 to 35 minutes, until the crust is cooked and the cheese browned.

Rest on the pan about five minutes, move to a rack to cool a couple more minutes, then cut with a pizza wheel.

If the bottom is not golden, set the pan over a flame to brown it.