Swiss cheese fondue

Grate the cheese on the large holes of a box grater and toss with cornstarch.

Rub the pot all over with a bruised garlic clove.

Add the wine and bring to a bare simmer over medium-low heat.

Drop to low and add the cheese a handful at a time, mixing constantly, each handful melted before the next, so it emulsifies; too much heat breaks it into an oily mess.

If it breaks, whisk a tablespoon of cornstarch with about a quarter cup of wine into it until it re-emulsifies.

When smooth, take off the heat; it thickens as it cools. Keep warm in an electric fondue pot or over a flame.

Serve with toasted chunks of crusty bread.

Variation: same procedure with a cup of beer and a pound of cornstarch-coated cheddars, whisked off heat until melted; serve with soft pretzels and kielbasa.