Tacos de jalapenos rellenos

Bring water to a boil; add roughly chopped piloncillo (softened 10 to 15 seconds in the microwave if hard) and two teaspoons of Diamond Crystal salt.

Cut a slit across each jalapeno half an inch below the top, then down the length to half an inch from the bottom, forming a T.

Blanch the jalapenos in the simmering salted sweet water about five minutes, holding them down with a spider; the sugar tames the heat.

Turn them upside down to drain and let cool.

Guacamole: scoop out three small avocados; add thinly sliced knob onion greens and chopped bulb, about 1 1/2 teaspoons of flaky salt and about a tablespoon of lime juice; mash with a potato masher, taste, and stir in some of the chiffonade cilantro.

Fold dried cilantro under and slice finely crosswise, stems and all, to a little over half a cup; mix the rest into the shredded cheese by hand.

With a small spoon scrape out the veins, where the heat is, and the seeds.

Form about an ounce of cheese into a football, stuff each chile and reshape it.

Freeze about 45 minutes until firm, so they can be battered and fried without the cheese falling out.

Souffle batter: separate five eggs; beat the whites at medium speed with about half a teaspoon of salt to almost stiff peaks.

Add a couple of tablespoons of flour at slow speed to stabilize, then add the yolks one at a time and mix until incorporated.

Dredge the chiles in flour, knock off the excess, coat on all sides in batter and lower into the hot oil.

Keep the oil at about 360 degrees (spoken in words, 'about a hundred three hundred and sixty degrees') and fry in batches.

After a couple of minutes, when golden underneath, baste the tops with the hot oil to set the batter and cook them from above.

Variation: fry several hours ahead and reheat on a baking sheet lined with a silicone mat or parchment in a hot oven, around 400 degrees, to crisp.

Spread a little guacamole on a tortilla, lay a chile relleno on top and sprinkle with anejo cheese.