Tarragon lobster bisque

Heat a big pot on high heat; add the oil and the small mirepoix of celery, onion and carrot.

Add the shallots, bay leaves, garlic and parsley in pieces; stir.

Sweat the vegetables about two minutes, then add the raw lobster shells and crush them.

Pour the cognac over the shells and light it so the alcohol burns off.

When the flame dies add the white wine; stir. Add the tomato paste and the fish stock and mix well.

Separate the tarragon leaves from the stems and chop very finely just before use, so they do not blacken; keep a little for the end.

Add the tarragon and stir. Simmer gently on medium-low for about 45 minutes to one hour, stirring every 15 minutes or so and keeping the shells covered by the liquid.

Make a beurre manie: soft butter and an equal amount of flour combined with a fork; reserve at room temperature.

Divide the beurre manie in half; loosen one half with some of the bisque liquid and stir it in. Add it gradually to control the consistency.

Taste; season with a pinch of salt and freshly ground pepper.

Thicken a little more with about a tablespoon of beurre manie loosened with bisque, until it just lightly coats the back of a spoon.

Strain through a conical strainer, pressing the shells to dry them out.

Bring back to a boil; add the reserved tarragon and the cream; taste and add a pinch of pepper.

Serve in a soup plate with chives sprinkled around.