Tarte flambée (flammekueche)

Keep the liquid for the yeast at about body temperature, about 37C and never over 40C, or the yeast dies and the bread stays flat.

Sift the flour; add the sugar, salt and active dry yeast and mix with a dough cutter. Make a well.

Add the beer to the well and work in a little flour, then the milk, taking in flour a little at a time, then the warm water in two halves, until the dough is soft and a bit sticky and all the flour is absorbed.

Knead: fold the dough edge to edge, press to the centre with the palm, and turn, always to the same side; flour the hands lightly if sticky. Knead about 10 minutes until smooth, elastic and slightly sticky, ending with one 'key' (belly button) at the centre.

Oil a bowl, cut a few slashes on the opposite side from the key so it rises faster, turn in the oil, wrap completely, and leave about an hour in a warm place until doubled.

Slice the bacon into thin lardons. Halve and core the onion and slice it as thin as possible, about a millimetre.

Fry the bacon in a large skillet over medium-high heat about 2 minutes, stirring.

Add the onions and oil and cook another 5 minutes on medium-high, stirring, until slightly golden brown.

Before the browned bits on the pan burn and turn bitter, deglaze with about a tablespoon of water so the colour and flavour go into the onions.

Season with salt and pepper, turn off the heat, and drain the onions and bacon in a sieve.

Preheat the oven to 450F (220C).

Cool the garnish a few minutes, mix with the creme fraiche or sour cream, the remaining seasoning and a few grates of nutmeg; taste.

Grease a 12-inch pizza tray with about a teaspoon of the bacon fat.

Turn out the risen dough onto the tray, punch it down and push it out; spread the garnish evenly, leaving about a quarter inch at the edge for the crust to brown.

Bake in the centre of the oven about 30 minutes; slide onto a platter and serve very hot with beer.