Tawa-style garlic naan in a cast iron skillet

Combine the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, baking soda, oil and yogurt.

Knead in milk or water a little at a time, starting dry, until the dough is soft and only barely sticky and springs back when pressed.

Oil the dough, cover with a wet towel and rest at least half an hour, longer if possible.

Variation, yeast dough: two cups flour, 1 tsp sugar, 1/2 tsp salt, 1 tsp dry yeast, 1/2 tsp baking powder, 2 tbsp olive oil, about 1 tbsp yogurt and about a cup of milk or water total; rise at least an hour at room temperature.

Knead the dough again shortly before cooking so it forms several small bubbles rather than one big one, and divide into four balls.

Roll each ball out on an unfloured counter, rolling outward and off, to just shy of the thinnest possible.

Top with grated garlic and chopped cilantro and roll the toppings into the dough.

Wet the bottom side of the dough and press it wet side down into a cast iron skillet on medium or a little less than medium heat.

Cook until bubbles rise and the edges look dry, a couple of minutes, or until the first whiff of burning.

Turn the burner to high and invert the pan over it so the top browns and the bubbles singe while the rest of the surface stays doughy.

Brush generously with melted salted butter and scrape the naan out of the pan.

Wash and dry the pan quickly between naan.

Variation, yeast dough: knead after a couple of hours of rising, divide into balls and proof at least 15 minutes before rolling and cooking the same way.

Variation without inverting the pan: cook the bottom, then flip and brown the top lightly, keeping the surface a little doughy.