Thai barbecued chicken (gai yang) with toasted-rice dipping sauce

Grind white peppercorns and toasted coriander seeds very fine by hand ('old school'; a coffee grinder or blender also works).

Add the bottom half of the lemongrass stalk and the garlic and work to a very fine paste so no chunks of garlic burn on the grill.

Transfer to a bowl and add soy sauce, fish sauce and dark soy sauce for colour.

Add a little oil to keep the chicken moist on the grill, some water (half brine, half marinade), and sugar to balance.

Break bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts and hindquarters into individual pieces, trimming excess skin flaps from the thighs so they do not hang into the grates and cause flare-ups.

For the breasts, cut a small incision at the cartilage, push to open, cut beside the keel bone to split into two breasts, and break or remove the wishbone.

Bag the chicken with the marinade, watching for sharp rib bones that can puncture the bag; set the bag in a dish in the fridge. Marinate at least two hours, ideally the day before.

For the dipping sauce, combine tamarind, fish sauce and sugar and stir to dissolve; if needed, warm a few seconds in the microwave without boiling.

Add a little lime juice, roasted chili flakes, finely chopped green onions, a few shallots and cilantro just before serving.

For the toasted rice powder, toast uncooked sticky or jasmine rice in a dry pan for a few minutes until golden, then grind fine in a mortar and pestle. Stir into the dip.

Preheat the grill to about medium and oil the grates. Put the chicken skin side up on a cooler spot or indirect heat, close the lid, and lower the heat almost to its lowest setting, keeping it at about 275, less than 300.

Grill 20 to 30 minutes, flipping many times for even cooking.

Rest the chicken. Serve with the dipping sauce and sticky rice steamed in a bamboo cone steamer.