Thai boat noodle broth (part 1)

Cover two pounds of pork neck bones with three litres of cold water, adding more if needed to cover.

Bring to a simmer and simmer 45 minutes before adding anything else.

Mash the fermented soybean paste in a mortar and pestle, or blend with a little stock, to break down the whole soybeans.

Skim off the scum and some of the fat.

Add the pandan leaves, onion, crushed garlic, cilantro roots, lemongrass tops, galangal, spices and all the seasonings; stir.

Simmer one hour to give the herbs and spices time and reduce slightly, then taste and adjust the seasoning.

Gather the bowl components: bean sprouts, spinach or other leafy greens, beef balls, marinated pork, and fried garlic in its oil, kept separate so the garlic stays crispy.