Thai fresh spring rolls with tuna (kway teow lui suan) and a cilantro-lime dipping sauce

Season the canned tuna with oyster sauce, a little olive oil (skip if oil-packed), black pepper and minced onion.

Taste, then add a little dash of soy sauce.

Blanch the cucumber and julienned carrots in salt water to soften, so the rolls stay moist without noodles; seed and julienne the tomato.

Dip the rice paper in water as warm as can be handled until just pliable; it keeps softening on the table.

Lay down the sprouts first as a bed to absorb liquid, then cucumber, carrots, tuna, a couple of pieces of tomato and a couple of basil leaves.

Fold in the sides and roll tightly so it does not fall apart when cut.

For the dipping sauce, blend garlic, lots of cilantro, lots of lime juice, fish sauce, Thai chilies and a little honey; add more cilantro to thicken if thin.

Trim off the wrap-heavy ends and cut the rolls; serve with the sauce.