Thai stuffed chicken wings with glass noodle and pork filling

Soak the dried shiitake in hot water at least 30 minutes, longer if large.

Separate half a 40 g pack of glass noodles and soak in room-temperature water 7 to 10 minutes; set a timer.

Cut the drumettes off the whole wings, keeping the wingtip as a handle.

Debone the flat: run a knife round the joint to cut the ligament and tendon, push the meat down the bones, cutting any stuck spot, then break the bones loose at the far joint and pull them out, leaving a meat pocket.

Marinate the wings with soy sauce, a touch of sugar and dark soy sauce, massaging them; this can be done a day ahead.

Pound white and black peppercorns, garlic and cilantro stems to a fine paste.

Drain the glass noodles and cut into pieces about three-quarters of an inch.

Mix ground pork with the paste, noodles, oyster sauce, fish sauce, soy sauce, shredded carrots, the squeezed and finely diced shiitake, green onions and a little sugar.

To check seasoning, cook a little of the filling in the microwave or a pan and taste; the filling keeps a day or two.

Line a baking sheet with foil and oil it (or use parchment paper).

Stuff each wing with filling, pushing it in with the thumb until full and flush with the meat, without overstuffing as the wing shrinks; place presentation side up.

Bake at high heat for browning, said as 'to the oven for 25... for 20 minutes'; let cool a little.

Slice about one centimetre thick with a very sharp knife to show the filling, keeping the tip piece whole; serve with sweet chili dipping sauce.