Thai-style Chinese roast duck breast with duck gravy

Remove the tender and its connective tissue; trim the silver skin from the back, the extra fat, and the overhanging skin that would touch the marinade and burn.

Score the skin with small, close cuts without reaching the meat, so the fat renders and the scores guide slicing.

Mix a dry rub of light brown sugar, salt, five spice powder and ginger powder; rub it on the meat side, keeping it off the skin.

Stir a teaspoon of water with a couple of drops of red food coloring and a touch of salt until dissolved; brush on the skin.

Marinate uncovered at least 45 minutes so the skin dries (with a fan, or up to a day uncovered in the fridge).

Pound white peppercorns, garlic, cilantro stems and chopped ginger to a fine paste; add the fermented soybean paste and mash it; add five spice powder.

Saute the paste in a little oil on low heat until dried, thickened and aromatic.

Deglaze with chicken stock, add coconut milk and soy sauce, whisk out the lumps; add black soy sauce for colour and honey.

Simmer about 5 minutes; adjust colour with more black soy sauce, turn off the heat and add crushed toasted sesame seeds. Keeps a couple of weeks in the fridge.

Wipe the marinade off the meat side with paper towel, keeping it off the skin.

Sear skin side down with no oil over medium heat so the fat renders before the skin burns; pour off the duck fat partway and keep it.

Transfer skin up to a foil-lined baking sheet and roast at 400 degrees about 12 minutes for medium (15 to 18 for well done), to 135 internal.

Pull at 135 for about medium; return a larger piece still at 125.

Rest at least 10 minutes (five if rushed) so the juices stay in.

Slice along the score marks, arrange in two rows and douse with the gravy; serve with hot jasmine rice.