The ultimate mashed potatoes

Choose potatoes of the same size. Peel and quarter them, cutting the tapered end a little longer so the pieces are even.

Rinse the cut potatoes thoroughly to wash off the starch, drain, and add to a pot of cold, very generously salted water.

Bring to a boil on the highest heat, then adjust to a steady simmer and cook until a knife goes in with almost no effort.

Cut a pound of butter into chunks and bring it to room temperature, ideally 60 to 65F.

Drain the potatoes very thoroughly, return them to the pot over medium-low heat.

Mash with a wire potato masher with no butter or milk, just to break them up.

Add pepper and salt and about a quarter of the butter chunks and mash until the butter almost disappears.

Switch to a wire whisk and beat in the remaining butter a quarter at a time, each addition until it almost disappears, keeping the heat on medium-low.

Finish with a quarter cup of hot milk and whip once more.

Taste and adjust the salt, add a shake of cayenne, turn off the heat and serve; garnish with nothing but a few chives.