Three-tier genoise wedding cake with raspberry jam and ermine frosting

Whip room-temperature eggs on high speed until thick, pale and fluffy, about ten minutes for a batch this size.

Slowly sprinkle in the sugar a spoonful at a time. Make the batter in two batches: one for two 10-inch cakes, one for the four smaller cakes.

Sieve the flour and baking powder over the egg mixture.

Fold in with a big metal spoon, around the bowl and cut down the middle, only until the flour is combined.

Line the bottoms of the pans with parchment and do not grease them; fill and flatten the tops with a spatula.

Bake at 325F / 165C with the fan on about 18 to 20 minutes; without a fan, rotate the pans.

For the syrup, dissolve white sugar with lemon juice, lemon zest and water over low heat without simmering; strain through a sieve.

After about 10 minutes' cooling, run a sharp knife around the edges to release the cakes; cool completely. The cakes can be made a day or two ahead.

Cut cake boards smaller than each tier and cover with foil or cling wrap.

For each tier: brush away loose crumbs, brush the layer with lemon syrup to the edges, spread ermine frosting to the edge, then jam leaving a border; top with the second layer upside down, syrup and frost, and scrape frosting down the sides for a naked finish.

Chill each tier to set and firm.

Dowel the lower tiers with straws cut flush with the cake, then stack the 8-inch and 6-inch tiers, steadying with a palette knife; fill any nicks.

Wrap flower stems in cling wrap and foil and arrange them on the cake.