Tiger milk bread

Whisk 14 g bread flour with 43 g milk and 43 g water in a pot until no lumps remain, then heat, whisking, until it thickens to a paste-like gel that shows the whisk's tracks.

Transfer the hot tangzhong to the mixing bowl. Add 300 g bread flour, 50 g granulated sugar, 14 g non-fat dry milk, 9 g yeast and 6 g salt.

Add cold milk (to cool the mixture so the eggs do not curdle and the dough does not overheat), the eggs, then 57 g melted butter.

Mix on low until moistened, scrape down, then mix at higher speed until the dough pulls away from the bowl and slaps the sides, about 15 minutes.

In a pot, whisk black cocoa with 43 g whole milk over low heat until it is the consistency of heavy cream; transfer to a bowl to cool slightly.

Divide the dough into about 420 g and 230 g pieces. Knead the larger piece smooth, place in a bowl, cover airtight and let rise in a warm place about an hour and a half until puffy.

Return the smaller piece to the mixer with the hydrated cocoa; mix slow, then faster until smooth and shiny. Mix in chocolate chips on low, working them in by hand if needed. Cover and rise about an hour and a half.

On a floured surface press the plain dough to release the gas and stretch it to an 8 by 10 inch rectangle, resting it if it resists or using a rolling pin.

Press the chocolate dough to the same 8 by 10 inch rectangle (it will be thinner), fold it in half to move it, and unfold it over the plain dough, covering the edges and pinching any tears.

Roll up from the short side, tugging the corners to keep it even, and pinch the seam closed.

With the seam up, cut the log in half lengthwise with a bench knife, turn the halves cut side up, cross them in an X and twist both ends, pinching and tucking them under.

Set in the Pullman pan, cover and proof in a warm area 40 to 50 minutes until it fills the pan about three quarters and a light press fills slowly.

Bake with the lid in a preheated 425 degree oven for 20 minutes.

Reduce the heat to 350 and bake 25 minutes more.

Remove the lid, invert the loaf onto a parchment-lined sheet pan and bake 5 minutes at 350 to dry the surface.

Turn the oven off, prop the door open and let the bread cool in the oven.

Variation: bake in an 8.5 by 4.5 inch loaf pan if there is no Pullman pan; the sides will not be straight.