Tiramisu-inspired layer cake

For the chiffon sponge, whisk cake flour with baking powder, baking soda and kosher salt.

Whisk six egg yolks with about half a cup of sugar in a large bowl.

Stream in the combined buttermilk, olive oil and vanilla extract, oil first, and whisk smooth.

Whisk in the dry ingredients to a smooth mixture.

In a scrupulously clean mixer bowl, beat room temperature egg whites with cream of tartar and a pinch of salt on medium low until foamy and opaque.

Slowly stream in the remaining sugar and beat on medium high to firm, glossy peaks. Do not overbeat or the whites clump and go grainy.

Fold a third of the whites into the yolk base, then the rest in two additions, just until streak free.

Scrape into the lined half sheet tray in an even layer and tap the tray on the counter to pop large air bubbles.

Bake at 350 for 18 to 20 minutes until puffed, evenly golden and springy. Hers took about 19 minutes. Cool on a rack.

For the filling, gently heat a cup and a half of milk with three tablespoons of whole coffee beans, the scraped seeds and pod of half a vanilla bean and a little salt, bringing it up slowly so both steep, then to a simmer and off.

Sprinkle powdered gelatin over two tablespoons of cold water without stirring and leave ten minutes to hydrate.

Combine cornstarch with three tablespoons of sugar, add the egg yolks and whisk vigorously about a minute to a thick ribbony texture.

Temper by straining the hot milk into the yolks a little at a time.

Return to the saucepan and cook with constant whisking until it thickens, the foam subsides and it holds the marks of the whisk.

Scrape immediately over the chocolate and butter, leaving any scorched or overcooked pastry cream behind, and stir to melt.

Melt the bloomed gelatin gently over low to medium low, without boiling, and stir it into the pastry cream.

For the Italian meringue, cook half a cup of sugar with a couple tablespoons of water, washing the pan sides down with a wet pastry brush, to 238 Fahrenheit.

Start whipping the egg whites with a pinch each of cream of tartar and salt when the syrup reaches 225 to 230, so the syrup goes into foamy whites at soft peaks.

Pour the syrup down the side of the bowl on medium high and whip to firm, glossy peaks, no further.

Whisk the pastry cream smooth, then fold the meringue in in three additions until streak free. Chilled, the gelatin sets it to a stable mousse.

Cut three eight inch layers from the sheet of sponge with a small serrated knife around a plate, taking two whole rounds and two halves that make the third; score first, then cut through.

Peel the sticky sugar-and-egg film off the surface of each layer so the sponge underneath can take the soak.

Line the mold with plastic wrap, lay in a layer of sponge cut side up, dab it over with espresso and drizzle olive oil.

Spread a scant two cups of filling between the layers, building up to the top layer, soak it, wrap the plastic over and chill until set, ideally overnight, twelve hours good and six the minimum.

Unwrap the surface, invert a plate over the mold and turn the whole thing out onto the serving platter.

For the frosting, beat four ounces each of mascarpone, cream cheese and butter with a pinch of salt and a generous squeeze of vanilla paste on the paddle until smooth.

Add two cups of powdered sugar all at once and mix very slowly, pulsing it in, then scrape down and beat on medium high to aerate.

Variation: with the crumb exposed, a thin crumb coat chilled before the final frosting is the usual step; she skipped it here but crumb coated the wedding cakes.

Apply more frosting than needed and take it away with a small offset spatula, working it down the sides and across the top, leaving a palette knife texture rather than a smooth finish.

Slice with a serrated knife, wiping the blade in hot water between cuts so the filling is not squeezed out.